Konke Odinga Ukukwazi Ngokusebenzisa i-Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

-Delile

• 1. Basiza ukukhipha amanoni
• Zama lokhu
• 2. Basiza ngokukhanyayo isikhumba esikhanyayo
• Zama lokhu
• 3. Basiza ukukhuthaza ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen
• Zama lokhu
• 4. Zisiza ukunciphisa ukubukeka kwemigqa engaphezulu nemibimbi
• Zama lokhu
• 5. Zikhuthaza ukugeleza kwegazi kuya esikhunjeni
• Zama lokhu
• 6. Basiza ukunciphisa nokulungisa ukushintsha kombala
• Zama lokhu
• 7. Zisiza ekwelapheni nasekuvikeleni izinduna
• Zama lokhu
• 8. Zisiza ukukhulisa ukumuncwa komkhiqizo
• Zama lokhu
• Kudingeka malini i-AHA?
• Ingabe imiphumela emibi kungenzeka?
• Uyini umehluko phakathi kwe-AHA ne-BHA?
• Ukuqhathanisa okusheshayo
  
• Okubalulekile

Sifaka imikhiqizo esicabanga ukuthi ilusizo kubafundi bethu. Uma uthenga ngezixhumanisi ezikuleli khasi, singathola ikhomishini encane. Nansi inqubo yethu.

Yini ama-AHA?

I-Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) yiqembu lama-acid atholakala ezitshalweni nasezilwaneni asetshenziswa emikhiqizweni ehlukahlukene yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba. Lokhu kufaka phakathi imikhiqizo yansuku zonke yokulwa nokuguga, njengama-serum, ama-toners, nama-cream, kanye nokwelashwa okugxilwe ngezikhathi ezithile ngamakhemikhali amakhemikhali.

Kunezinhlobo eziyisikhombisa zama-AHAs asetshenziswa kakhulu emikhiqizweni etholakala kuyo yonke imboni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba. Lokhu kufaka phakathi:

• i-citric acid (kusuka kwizithelo ezingamawolintshi)
• i-glycolic acid (kusuka ezimobeni)
• i-hydroxycaproic acid (evela ku-royal jelly)
• i-hydroxycaprylic acid (evela ezilwaneni)
• i-lactic acid (kusuka ku-lactose noma amanye ama-carbohydrate)
• i-malic acid (kusuka izithelo)
• i-tartaric acid (evela kumagilebhisi)

Ucwaningo ngokusetshenziswa nokusebenza kwama-AHA lubanzi. Kodwa-ke, kuwo wonke ama-AHA atholakalayo, ama-glycolic kanye ne-lactic acid yiwona futhi acwaningwe kahle. Lawa ma-AHA amabili nawo azodala ukucasuka. Ngenxa yalokhu, ama-AHA amaningi e-over-the-counter (OTC) aqukethe i-glycolic noma i-lactic acid.

Ama-AHAs asetshenziselwa ukukhipha ngokweqile. Zingasiza futhi:

• khuthaza i-collagen nokugeleza kwegazi
• ukulungisa umbala kuzibazi nezindawo zobudala
• thuthukisa ukubukeka kwemigqa yaphezulu nemibimbi
• ukuvimbela ukuqubuka kwezinduna
• khanyisa ibala lakho
• ukwandisa ukumuncwa komkhiqizo

1. Basiza ukukhipha amanoni

Ama-AHAs asetshenziselwa ukukhipha isikhumba sakho. Eqinisweni, lesi yisisekelo sazo zonke ezinye izinzuzo ezinikezwa ama-AHA.

Ukukhishwa kwesikhumba kusho inqubo lapho amangqamuzana esikhumba ebusweni ekhipha khona. Lokhu kusiza ukususa amangqamuzana esikhumba afile kepha futhi kuvulela isizukulwane esisha seseli lesikhumba.

Njengoba ukhula, umjikelezo wesikhumba sakho semvelo uncipha, okungenza amangqamuzana esikhumba afile akheke. Uma unamaseli esikhumba afile amaningi kakhulu, angaqongelela futhi enze ibala lakho libukeke lifiphele.

Ukuqoqwa kweseli lesikhumba elifile nakho kungathuthukisa ezinye izingqinamba zesikhumba, njenge:

• imibimbi
• amabala weminyaka
• induna

Noma kunjalo, akuwona wonke ama-AHA anamandla afanayo wokuqothula. Inani lokukhishwa kwesikhumba linqunywa uhlobo lwe-AHA oyisebenzisayo. Njengomthetho wesithupha, ama-AHA amaningi aqukethwe kumkhiqizo, imiphumela enamandla kakhulu yokukhipha amandla.

Zama lokhu

Ngokukhishwa okukhulu okukhulu, zama i-Performance Peel AP25 nge-Exuviance. Leli cwecwe liqukethe i-glycolic acid futhi lingasetshenziswa kuze kube kabili ngesonto ukuthola imiphumela emihle. Ungabheka futhi i-AHA exfoliant yansuku zonke, njengalesi sithambisa sansuku zonke sikaNonie waseBeverly Hills.

2. Basiza ngokukhanyayo isikhumba esikhanyayo

Lapho lawa ma-asidi ekhipha isikhumba sakho, amaseli esikhumba afile ayawohloka. Isikhumba esisha esivezwe ngezansi siyakhanya futhi siyakhazimula. Ama-AHA ane-glycolic acid angasiza ekuhlukaniseni ukuqongelelwa kwamaseli esikhumba, kuyilapho imikhiqizo ene-citric acid ingakhanyisa isikhumba sakho ngokuqhubekayo.

Zama lokhu

Ukuze uthole izinzuzo zansuku zonke, zama i-AHA ne-Ceramide Moisturizer kaMario Badescu. Iqukethe i-citric acid ne-aloe vera gel yakho kokubili ukukhanya nokutholisa imiphumela. I-Juice Beauty's Green Apple Peel Full Strength ingasetshenziswa kuze kube kabili ngeviki ukuletha isikhumba esikhanyayo ngama-AHA amathathu ahlukene.

3. Basiza ukukhuthaza ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen

I-Collagen iyi-fiber ecebile ngamaprotheni esiza ukugcina isikhumba sakho siqinile futhi sibushelelezi. Njengoba ukhula, le micu iyawohloka. Ukulimala kwelanga nakho kungasheshisa ukubhujiswa kwe-collagen. Lokhu kungaholela esikhunjeni esinciphile, esigugile.

I-Collagen uqobo isendlaleni emaphakathi yesikhumba sakho (i-dermis). Lapho kususwa ungqimba ophezulu (i-epidermis), imikhiqizo efana ne-AHAs ingaya ukusebenza ku-dermis. Ama-AHAs angasiza ukukhuthaza ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen ngokubhubhisa imicu yakudala ye-collagen ukwenza okusha.

Zama lokhu

Ukuze uthole i-collagen boost, zama i-Andalou Naturals 'Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask.

4. Zisiza ukunciphisa ukubukeka kwemigqa engaphezulu nemibimbi

Ama-AHAs ayaziwa ngemiphumela yawo yokulwa nokuguga, futhi nolayini bendawo bahlukile. Omunye ubike ukuthi amavolontiya ayi-9 kwayishumi asebenzise ama-AHA esikhathini esingamasonto amathathu ahlangabezane nokuthuthuka okuphawulekayo ekuthungeni isikhumba konke.

Noma kunjalo, kubalulekile ukukhumbula ukuthi ama-AHA asebenzela imigqa engaphezulu nemibimbi kuphela, hhayi imibimbi ejulile. Ukugcwaliswa kobuchwepheshe okuvela kudokotela, kanye nezinye izinqubo ezifana nokuvela kabusha kwe-laser, ukuphela kwezindlela ezisebenzela imibimbi ejulile.

Zama lokhu

Zama le serum yansuku zonke ye-glycolic acid eyenziwe yi-Alpha Skin Care ukunciphisa ukubukeka kwemigqa yangaphakathi nemibimbi. Ngemuva kwalokho ungasebenzisa i-AHA moisturizer, efana ne-NeoStrata's Face Cream Plus AHA 15.

5. Zikhuthaza ukugeleza kwegazi kuya esikhunjeni

Ama-AHA anezinto ezilwa nokuvuvukala ezingasiza ukukhuthaza ukugeleza kwegazi kuya esikhunjeni. Lokhu kungasiza ukulungisa umbala okhanyayo, okhanyayo. Ukuhamba kwegazi okufanele kuqinisekisa nokuthi amangqamuzana esikhumba athola izakhamzimba ezidingekayo ngamaseli abomvu ane-oxygen.

Zama lokhu

Ukuze uthuthukise isikhumba esimnyama nokuntuleka komoya-mpilo okuhlobene, zama le seramu yansuku zonke evela ku-First Aid Beauty.

6. Basiza ukunciphisa nokulungisa ukushintsha kombala

Ingozi yakho yokuguqulwa kwesikhumba inyuka ngokukhula. Isibonelo, amabala ansundu ayizicaba, aziwa ngokuthi amabala obudala (ama-lentigine), angavela ngenxa yokushiswa yilanga. Zijwayele ukukhula ezindaweni zomzimba ezivezwa yilanga kaningi, njengesifuba sakho, izandla nobuso.

Ukuguqulwa kombala nakho kungavela ku:

• melasma
• i-post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• izibazi zomqubuko

Ama-AHA akhuthaza inzuzo yesikhumba yesikhumba. Amaseli amasha wesikhumba ahlukaniswe ngokulinganayo. Ngokombono, ukusetshenziswa kwesikhathi eside kwama-AHA kunganciphisa ukuguqulwa kwesikhumba ngokukhuthaza amangqamuzana amadala, akhanyayo ukuze aphenduke.

I-American Academy of Dermatology incoma i-glycolic acid ukuze ishintshe umbala.

Zama lokhu

Ukudonswa kombala kungazuza ku-AHA esetshenziswa nsuku zonke, efana ne-Murad's AHA / BHA Exfoliating Cleanser. Ukwelashwa okunamandla kakhulu kungasiza, futhi, njengale maski ye-citric-acid evela kuMario Badescu.

7. Zisiza ekwelapheni nasekuvikeleni izinduna

Ungahle ujwayelane ne-benzoyl peroxide nezinye izithako zokulwa nezinduna zezici eziyinkani. Ama-AHA nawo angasiza ekwelapheni nasekuvimbeleni izinduna eziphindaphindayo.

Izinduna zenzeka lapho izimbotshana zakho zigcwele inhlanganisela yamaseli esikhumba afile, uwoyela (sebum), namagciwane. Ukukhipha ama-AHAs kungasiza ukukhulula nokususa i-clog. Ukusetshenziswa okuqhubekayo kungavimbela nama-clogs wesikhathi esizayo ukuthi angakhiwa.

Ama-AHA nawo anganciphisa usayizi wama-pores akhulisiwe, okuvame ukubonakala esikhunjeni esithandwa izinduna. Ukuthengiswa kwesikhumba esikhunjeni kusuka ekukhipheni i-glycolic ne-lactic acid kunganciphisa nezibazi zomqubuko. Eminye imikhiqizo yezinduna iqukethe namanye ama-AHA, afana ne-citric kanye ne-malic acid, ukusiza ukuthambisa isikhumba esivuvukele.

Futhi ama-AHAs awekho nje ebusweni bakho! Ungasebenzisa imikhiqizo ye-AHA kwezinye izindawo ezithandwa izinduna, kufaka phakathi ingemuva nesifuba sakho.

Ngokusho kweMayo Clinic, kungathatha izinyanga ezimbili kuya kwezintathu ngaphambi kokuba uqale ukubona ukuthuthuka okukhulu kwezinduna. Kubalulekile ukubekezela ngenkathi imikhiqizo isebenza ukukhulula induna ngokuhamba kwesikhathi. Udinga futhi ukusebenzisa imikhiqizo ngokungazelelwe ukweqa ukwelashwa kwansuku zonke kwenza kuthathe isikhathi eside ukuthi izithako zisebenze.

Zama lokhu

Zama i-gel yokuhlanza izinduna ukuze ususe amangqamuzana esikhumba afile kanye namafutha amaningi, njengaleli elivela kuPeter Thomas Roth. Isikhumba esithanda izinduna sisengasizakala kuhlamvu lwe-AHA, kepha qiniseka ukuthi ubheka esenzelwe uhlobo lwesikhumba sakho. Zama iJuice Beauty Green Apple Blemish Clearing Peel yesikhumba esithandwa yizinduna.

8. Zisiza ukukhulisa ukumuncwa komkhiqizo

Ngaphezu kwezinzuzo zabo ezihlukile, ama-AHA angenza imikhiqizo yakho ekhona isebenze kangcono ngokwandisa ukumunca kwayo esikhunjeni.

Isibonelo, uma unamaseli esikhumba afile amaningi kakhulu, i-moisturizer yakho yansuku zonke ivele ihlale phezulu ngaphandle kokufaka amaseli akho amasha esikhumba ngaphansi. Ama-AHA afana ne-glycolic acid angadabula lolu ungqimba lwamaseli esikhumba afile, anike amandla i-moisturizer yakho ukufakela amaseli akho esikhumba amasha ngempumelelo.

Zama lokhu

Ukukhulisa ukumuncwa komkhiqizo nsuku zonke ngama-AHAs, zama i-toner oyisebenzisayo ngemuva kokuyihlanza nangaphambi kwe-serum ne-moisturizer yakho, njenge-Exuviance's Moisture Balance Toner.

Kudingeka malini i-AHA?

Njengomthetho wesithupha, kunconywa imikhiqizo ye-AHA enokuhlungwa kwe-AHA jikelele ngaphansi kwamaphesenti ayi-10. Lokhu kusiza ukuvimbela imiphumela emibi evela kuma-AHA.

Ngokusho komtholampilo waseCleveland, akufanele usebenzise imikhiqizo engaphezu kuka-15% we-AHA.

Imikhiqizo yokusetshenziswa yansuku zonke - njenge-serum, toners, kanye ne-moisturizers - iqukethe ukugxila kwe-AHA okuphansi Isibonelo, i-serum noma i-toner ingaba ne-5% ye-AHA.

Imikhiqizo egxile kakhulu, njenge-glycolic acid peels, isetshenziswa kaningi ukunciphisa ubungozi bemiphumela emibi.

Ingabe imiphumela emibi kungenzeka?

Uma ungakaze usebenzise ama-AHA ngaphambili, ungahle ube nemiphumela engemihle ngenkathi isikhumba sakho silungisa umkhiqizo.

Imiphumela emibi yesikhashana ingafaka:

• evuthayo
• ukulunywa
• amabhamuza
• isikhumba (eczema)

Ukuze unciphise ingozi yokuthukuthela, iCleveland Clinic incoma ukusebenzisa imikhiqizo ye-AHA nsuku zonke. Njengoba isikhumba sakho sibajwayela, ungaqala ukusebenzisa ama-AHA nsuku zonke.

Futhi qaphela kakhulu lapho uya elangeni. Imiphumela yokuxebuka yama-AHA agxile kakhulu kungenza isikhumba sakho sizwele kakhulu emisebeni ye-UV ngemuva kokuyisebenzisa. Kufanele ugqoke i-sunscreen nsuku zonke uphinde ufake isicelo kaningi ukuvimbela ukushiswa yilanga.

Kufanele uxhumane nodokotela wakho ngaphambi kokusebenzisa uma une:

• isikhumba esisanda kushejwa
• ukusika noma ukusha esikhunjeni sakho
• rosacea
• ukhwekhwe
• eczema

Abesifazane abakhulelwe noma abancelisayo kufanele futhi babonane nodokotela wabo ngaphambi kokusetshenziswa. Uma udokotela wakho ethi kulungile ukuthi usebenzise imikhiqizo ye-AHA, cabanga ngokuthile okubhekiswe ekukhulelweni, njengeJuice Beauty's Green Apple Pregnancy Peel.

Uyini umehluko phakathi kwe-AHA ne-BHA?

Ukuqhathanisa okusheshayo

• Kunama-AHA amaningi, kanti i-salicylic acid ukuphela kwe-BHA.
• Ama-AHA angahle alungele ukukhathazeka kwesikhumba okuhlobene nobudala, njengemigqa emihle nemibimbi.
• Ama-BHAs angahle abe ngcono uma unesikhumba esibucayi, esithanda izinduna.
• Uma unokukhathazeka okungaphezu kwesisodwa kwesikhumba, ungazama ngawo womabili ama-AHAs nama-BHAs. Qiniseka ukuthi ufaka imikhiqizo kancane kancane ukunciphisa ukucasuka.

Enye i-asidi esetshenziswa kakhulu emakethe yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ibizwa nge-beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). Ngokungafani nama-AHA, ama-BHAs asuselwa kumthombo owodwa: i-salicylic acid. Ungahle uqaphele i-salicylic acid njengesithako esilwa nezinduna, kepha lokhu akuyona yonke into eyenzayo.

Njengama-AHAs, i-salicylic acid isiza ukuqothula isikhumba ngokususa amangqamuzana esikhumba afile. Lokhu kungasiza ukusula amakhanda amnyama namhlophe ngokuvula izimbotshana ezenziwe ngamangqamuzana esikhumba afile abhajwe nakoyela kuzicucu zezinwele.

Ama-BHAs angahle asebenze njenge-AHAs yezinduna, ukuthuthuka kokuthungwa, nokuguqulwa kombala okuhlobene nelanga. I-salicylic acid nayo ayicasuli kangako, engahle ikhetheke uma unesikhumba esibucayi.

Uma unokukhathazeka okungaphezu kwesisodwa kwesikhumba, ungahle uzame ama-AHAs nama-BHAs, kepha kufanele usondele ngokuqapha. Ama-AHA angahle alungele ukukhathazeka kwesikhumba okuhlobene nobudala, kuyilapho ama-BHAs angahle abe ngcono uma unesikhumba esibucayi, esithanda izinduna. Okokugcina, ungacabanga ukusebenzisa ama-BHA nsuku zonke, njenge-salicylic acid toner, bese usebenzisa ikhasi lesikhumba eliqukethe i-AHA masonto onke ukukhipha okujulile.

Uma usebenzisa imikhiqizo eminingi esikhumbeni sakho, kubalulekile ukuyifaka kuhlobo lwakho lwemithi kancane kancane. Ukusebenzisa ama-AHA amaningi, ama-BHA, namakhemikhali ngasikhathi sinye kungadala ukucasuka. Ngokulandelayo, lokhu kungenza imibimbi, izinduna nokunye ukukhathazeka kwesikhumba kubonakale kakhulu.

Okubalulekile

Uma ufuna ukukhishwa okuphawulekayo, khona-ke ama-AHA angaba yimikhiqizo efanelekile ongayicabangela. Ungakhetha ukukhishwa kwansuku zonke ngama-serum aqukethe i-AHA, ama-toners, nama-cream, noma wenze ukwelashwa okukhulu kwe-peel kanye noma kabili ngesonto.

Ama-AHA aphakathi kwemikhiqizo yobuhle ecwaningwe kakhulu ngenxa yemiphumela yabo enamandla, kepha akuyona eyabo bonke abantu. Uma unezimo zesikhumba esezikhona, khuluma nodokotela wesikhumba noma uchwepheshe wezokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kuqala ngaphambi kokuzama lezi zinhlobo zemikhiqizo. Bangakusiza ukuthi unqume i-AHA enhle kakhulu ngohlobo lwakho lwesikhumba nezinhloso zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba.

Ama-AHA angaphezulu kwekhawunda akudingeki ukuthi enze ubufakazi besayensi bokusebenza kwawo ngaphambi kokubekwa emakethe, ngakho-ke thenga kuphela imikhiqizo kubakhiqizi obathembayo. Ungase futhi ucabangele ukuthola ikhasi lamandla ochwepheshe ehhovisi likadokotela wakho.