Umhlahlandlela Wezwe Elididayo Lobuso be-Acids nokuthi Yibaphi Ozozisebenzisa

-Delile

• Ama-face acids ayisihluthulelo sesikhumba esijabulisayo
• Isihlanza senduna esaziwa kakhulu
• Imikhiqizo edumile ye-salicylic acid:
  
• Isikhali esimnandi sokulwa nokuguga
• Imikhiqizo edumile ye-glycolic acid:
  
• I-smoothening exfoliant yesikhumba ngisho
• Imikhiqizo edumile ye-mandelic acid:
  
• I-grail engcwele yokuvalelisa izinduna
• Imikhiqizo edumile ye-azelaic acid:
  
• I-ejenti ekhanyayo, emhlophe
• Imikhiqizo ye-kojic acid edumile:
  
• Udade ku-vitamin C
• Ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba okungaziwa kancane
• I-Linoleic acid ne-oleic acid, abasizi ekuhambiseni izinzuzo
• Iyiphi i-asidi okufanele ngiyisebenzise?
• Okufanele ukwazi ngokuxuba ama-acid enkambisweni yakho yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba
• Ungahlanganisi ama-acid ebusweni
  

Sifaka imikhiqizo esicabanga ukuthi ilusizo kubafundi bethu. Uma uthenga ngezixhumanisi ezikuleli khasi, singathola ikhomishini encane. Nansi inqubo yethu.

Ama-face acids ayisihluthulelo sesikhumba esijabulisayo

Igama elithi “acid” likhumbuza izithombe zamabhubhu okuhlola abilayo kanye nemicabango yokusha kwamakhemikhali okwethusayo. Kepha uma isetshenziswa ezindaweni ezifanele, ama-acids empeleni izithako ezizuzisa kakhulu ezitholakala ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba.

Angamathuluzi ezimangaliso asetshenziswa ukulwa nezinduna, imibimbi, amabala eminyaka, izibazi, nethoni yesikhumba engalingani. Kepha ngama-acid amaningi emakethe, kungabonakala kukhungathekisa ukukhumbula ukuthi uzosebenzisani - nokuthi yini - nokuthi imiphi imikhiqizo okufanele uyithenge. Ngaphambi kwakho konke lokho, kufanele wazi ukuthi ungaqala kuphi.

Isihlanza senduna esaziwa kakhulu

I-salicylic acid isinesikhathi eside ikhona. Kuyaziwa ngekhono laso lokukhipha isikhumba ngaphandle nokugcina ama-pores acacile, okusiza ukunciphisa induna. Uzokuthola kuma-serum nakuma-cleanser lapho kugxilwe khona phakathi kwamaphesenti ama-0,5 no-2, kanye nokwelashwa kwamabala okuphumula.

I-salicylic acid isetshenziswa nasezingxenyeni eziphakeme njenge-ejenti yokuxebuka yokwelapha izinduna, izibazi zomqubuko, i-melasma, ukulimala kwelanga, nezindawo zeminyaka emitholampilo yezesikhumba. Isebenza kahle kakhulu ukuthi isetshenziselwa izixazululo zezinsumpa nokususwa kommbila, yize kusaphephile ukusetshenziswa esikhunjeni esimnyama esithanda ukubala. Njengoba ihlobene ne-aspirin (i-acetylsalicylic acid), futhi inezinto ezilwa nokuvuvukala.

Imikhiqizo edumile ye-salicylic acid:

• Ama-pads weStridex Maximum Strength, $ 6.55
• Inketho kaPaula 2% BHA Liquid, $ 9
• I-Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash, $ 6.30
• UMario Badescu Womisa iLotion, $ 17.00

Isikhali esimnandi sokulwa nokuguga

IGlycolic acid yi-alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) ethandwa kakhulu esetshenziswa ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba.Ivela ezimobeni, futhi iyi-AHA encane kunazo zonke, ngakho-ke iyona ephumelela kakhulu ukungena esikhunjeni. IGlycolic acid iyindlela enhle yokulwa nokuguga ebonakala ikwenza konke.

Kusebenza kahle ekukhipheni isikhumba nokunciphisa imigqa emihle, ukuvimbela izinduna, ukufiphala kwamabala amnyama, ukwanda kwesikhumba, nokukhanya kwethoni yesikhumba nokuthungwa. Ngakho-ke akumangazi ukuthi uzothola emikhiqizweni eminingi yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba sehlelo. Ngokuvamile kutholakala ekugxileni okungaphansi kwamaphesenti ayi-10.

Ngokufana ne-salicylic acid, i-glycolic acid nayo isetshenziswa kuma-peels ekwelapheni izinduna kanye nezimbala, kwesinye isikhathi kuhambisana ne-microdermabrasion noma i-microneedling. Kodwa-ke, ukusetshenziswa kwe-glycolic acid kwandisa ukuzwela kwelanga noma ngabe akukho esikhunjeni, ngakho-ke udinga ukusebenzisa i-sunscreen futhi ukuvimbela ukonakala kwelanga okwengeziwe.

Imikhiqizo edumile ye-glycolic acid:

• I-Pixi Glow Tonic, $ 37.98
• I-Derma E Peelight Peel, $ 13.53
• AmaReviva Labs 10% Glycolic Acid Cream, $ 13.36
• I-Gly-luronic Acid Serum, $ 21.00

I-smoothening exfoliant yesikhumba ngisho

I-Mandelic acid ingenye i-alpha-hydroxy acid, etholakala kuma-alimondi ababayo. Njenge-glycolic acid, yi-ejenti ekhipha amafutha elusizo ekuvikeleni izinduna, ukwelapha ukulimala kwelanga, kanye nokukhishwa kombala kusihlwa.

Kodwa-ke, ngenxa yesakhiwo sayo esikhulu samangqamuzana, ayingeni esikhunjeni ngokujula njenge-glycolic acid, ngakho-ke ayisicasuli kangako isikhumba. Ngalesi sizathu, kunconywa kakhulu kuma-peels esikhundleni se-glycolic acid, ikakhulukazi isikhumba sobuhlanga esivame kakhulu ukubala umbala. Ukuphindaphinda i-pigmentation kwenzeka lapho ukumelana kwakhelwa into ethile ngenxa yokusetshenziswa ngokweqile. Lokhu kubangela ukuthi into ingasebenzi nje kuphela, kepha kaningi ibangela ukuthi ibe nokuphikisana nomphumela ohlosiwe.

Imikhiqizo edumile ye-mandelic acid:

• Ifilosofi Microdelivery Pads Acid Brightening Peel Pads, $ 11.95
• UDkt Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel Amandla Angeziwe, $ 51.44
• I-MUAC Mandelic Acid Serum, $ 29.95
• UDkt Wu Wokuvuselela Okukhulu Serum nge-Mandelic Acid, $ 24.75

I-grail engcwele yokuvalelisa izinduna

I-Azelaic acid ibingelinye lezindlela zokwelapha ezisemqoka zokulwa nezinduna ezilinganiselayo kule minyaka engamashumi amathathu edlule, futhi itholakala kokhilimu abaningi abanikezwa kadokotela kuphela. Igcina ama-pores acacile, ibulala amagciwane, futhi inciphisa ukuvuvukala. Ngokuvamile kutholakala ukugxila kwamaphesenti ayi-15 kuye kwangama-20 kokhilimu abenzelwe ukuthi basebenzise ubuso bonke, ekuseni nasebusuku. I-Azelaic acid imvamisa inemiphumela emibi kakhulu, kepha kwabanye abantu abanesikhumba esibucayi kakhulu ingadala ukuluma, ukuxebuka, nokubomvu.

Kanye nokwelapha izinduna, i-azelaic acid nayo ilusizo ekushabalaleni amamaki ezinduna, noma i-hyperpigmentation yangemva kokuvuvukala. Ihlanganiswa kaningi nama-retinoid njengenye indlela ethambile kune-hydroquinone.

Imikhiqizo edumile ye-azelaic acid:

• Ukumiswa Okujwayelekile kwe-Acid Azelaic 10%, $ 7.90
• Amafomula Wezemvelo I-Melazepam Cream, $ 14.70

I-ejenti ekhanyayo, emhlophe

I-Kojic acid ikhiqizwa ngamagciwane asetshenziselwa ukuvutshelwa kwelayisi ukukhiqizwa ngenxa. Kuyisithako esidumile emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba e-Asia ngenxa yayo. (I-Whitening iyigama lemikhiqizo eminingi yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba yase-Asia elisebenzisa ukubhekisa ekwehleni kwe-hyperpigmentation kanye nethoni yesikhumba engalingani.)

Kutholakala kuma-cleansers nakuma-serum ngamaphesenti ayi-1 kuya kwayi-4. Ngeshwa, kuyacasula kakhulu esikhunjeni - kodwa futhi kuyasebenza kakhulu.

Imikhiqizo ye-kojic acid edumile:

• ISojie San Lightening Soap, $ 7.98
• I-Kikumasamune Sake Skin Lotion High Moisture, $ 13.06

Udade ku-vitamin C

I-Ascorbic iyindlela evame kakhulu ukuncibilika emanzini kavithamini C, futhi isetshenziselwa ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba ngemiphumela yayo yokulwa nokuguga. Iphinde yasetshenziswa esikhundleni se-hydroquinone ekwelapheni i-melasma. I-Ascorbic acid ayizinzile kakhulu lapho kukhona umoya-mpilo namanzi, ngakho-ke itholakala kakhulu ngezinhlobo ezizinzile ngaphansi kwegama le-magnesium ascorbyl phosphate ne-tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid.

Ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba okungaziwa kancane

Nawa amanye ama-acid okunakekelwa kwesikhumba okungenzeka abe semakethe. Lawa ma-asidi kungenzeka ukuthi awathandwa kangako, ngakho-ke kungaba nzima ukuthola kulayini ojwayelekile wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba nemikhiqizo, kodwa kusenobufakazi bokuthi ziyasebenza:

I-Linoleic acid ne-oleic acid, abasizi ekuhambiseni izinzuzo

Uma ukhuluma nge-linoleic acid ne-oleic acid ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba, ikakhulu kusendaweni kawoyela, lapho engewona ama-asidi eqiniso ngasese. Koyela, la mafutha acid asabele ukulahlekelwa ngamaqembu awo e-acid, ukuze akhe ama-triglycerides. Ngokuvamile, uwoyela oqukethe i-linoleic acid enezinto ezomile ezilingana nesikhumba esinamafutha, kuyilapho uwoyela oqukethe i-oleic acid eningi uzizwa ucebile futhi usebenza kangcono esikhunjeni esomile.

I-Linoleic acid iyodwa inezici zokukhanyisa imibala, kepha njengoba isivele itholakala kumafutha, kuzodingeka usebenzise umkhiqizo ongenayo i-linoleic acid ukuze uzuze umphumela ofanayo. I-Oleic acid iyodwa iyisiphazamiso sesithiyo esilusizo ekusizeni izidakamizwa zingene esikhunjeni.

Iyiphi i-asidi okufanele ngiyisebenzise?

Ukukhetha ukuthi iyiphi i-asidi oyisebenzisayo yingxenye enzima. Indlela elula yokwenza ngakho, ukwazi ukuthi iyiphi inkinga ofuna ukuyilapha.

I-Pro-tip: Ukuphakama kokuhlushwa, cishe i-asidi izocasula isikhumba. Njalo hlanganisa ukuhlolwa bese uqala ngokuhlushwa okuphansi ngaphambi kokuya phezulu.

Ama-acid amaningi ahlinzeka ngezinzuzo eziningi futhi njengoba zingangena ngezindlela eziningi ezahlukahlukene kungenzeka ukuthi zisebenzise ezingaphezu kweyodwa. Imikhiqizo ivame ukukhangisa ama-acid asebenzayo kubahlanzayo, ama-serum, ama-toners, nokuningi, kepha hlola uhlu lwezithako ukuqinisekisa ukuthi i-asidi iyisithako esisebenzayo - esisohlwini lwaphezulu, hhayi umlingiswa oseceleni okhohliwe ekugcineni kohlu .

Okufanele ukwazi ngokuxuba ama-acid enkambisweni yakho yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba

Ngemuva kokuthunyelwa kwakho okusha kwezimpahla zobuhle ngeposi, khumbula ukuthi ungazifaki zonke ngasikhathi sinye! Amanye ama-acid angaxhumana nabanye.

Ungahlanganisi ama-acid ebusweni

• Ungasebenzisi i-salicylic acid nganoma iyiphi enye i-asidi ngasikhathi sinye. Ukucasuka okukhulu kwesikhumba kungenzeka lapho kuxutshwe.
• Gwema i-salicylic acid ngemikhiqizo equkethe i-niacinamide.
• Ungasebenzisi i-glycolic acid noma i-lactic acid ngokuhlangana ne-ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Lokhu kuzokwenza ukuthi inzuzo ye-ascorbic acid inyamalale nangaphambi kokuba iqale ukusebenza.
• Gwema ukusebenzisa ama-AHA nge-retinol.

Ukuze uzungeze lokhu, hlela ama-acid akho phakathi kokusebenzisa emini nasebusuku. Isibonelo, sebenzisa i-salicylic acid ekuseni nenye i-asidi kusihlwa. Usazothola izinzuzo zakho zombili uma uzisebenzisa ezinhlelweni ezihlukile.

UMichelle uchaza isayensi engemuva kwemikhiqizo yobuhle ku Isayensi Yezobuhle yeLab Muffin. Une-PhD ekhemisi yokwenziwa yokwenziwa. Ungamlandela ukuthola amathiphu wobuhle asuselwa kwisayensi ku Instagram futhi Facebook.