Kungani Kufanele Wengeze I-Lactic, i-Citric, kanye Namanye ama-Acid ku-Regimen Yakho Yokunakekelwa Kwesikhumba

-Delile

• I-Mandelic Acid
• I-Lactic Acid
• I-Malic Acid
• I-Azelaic Acid
• I-Phytic Acid
• I-Tartaric Acid
• I-Citric Acid
• Ama-Blends amahle kakhulu
• Buyekeza kwe-

Ngenkathi i-glycolic acid yethulwa ekuqaleni kwawo-1990, yayiyinguquko ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba. Eyaziwa njenge-alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), bekuyisithako sokuqala esisebenzayo ongasisebenzisa ekhaya ukusheshisa ukugoqeka kwesikhumba esifile nokuveza isikhumba esisha, ebushelelezi nesimanzi ngaphansi. Kamuva sifunde ukuthi okususelwa kukamoba nakho kungakhuthaza ukukhiqizwa kwesikhumba sakho kwe-collagen.

Ngemuva kwalokho kwafika i-salicylic acid, i-beta hydroxy acid (BHA) engaqeda ukwakheka kwe-sebum ekujuleni kwama-pores futhi isebenze njenge-anti-inflammatory, ikwenze kube kuhle esikhunjeni esibomvu, esicasukile nesine-acned. (Bheka: Ingabe i-Salicylic Acid Ngempela Iyisithako Esisimangaliso Semibungu?) Ngenxa yalokho, i-glycolic acid yaba yindinganiso yegolide yokulwa nokuguga futhi i-salicylic acid yaba yisithandwa sokulwa nezinduna. Lokho kuhlala kungashintshi kuze kube muva nje.

Manje eminye imikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba inama-asidi angaziwa kangako njenge-mandelic, phytic, tartaric, ne-lactic. Kungani kunezelwa? "Ngicabanga ngama-glycolic ne-salicylic acid njengabalingisi abahamba phambili emdlalweni nalawa amanye ama-asidi njengabalingisi abasekelayo. Lapho bonke besebenza ndawonye, ​​bangathuthukisa umkhiqizo," kusho Umumo Ilungu leBrain Trust uNeal Schultz, MD, ungudokotela wesikhumba eNew York City.

Laba badlali abasekelayo bathuthukisa ukusebenza ngezizathu ezimbili. Okokuqala, nakuba ama-asidi amaningi esiza ekukhipheni isikhumba, "ngamunye wenza okungenani into eyodwa enenzuzo esikhumbeni," kusho udokotela wesikhumba we-NYC uDennis Gross, M.D. Lokhu kuhlanganisa ukuqinisa ukugeleza kwamanzi, ukulwa nama-radicals mahhala, nokusiza ukusimamisa ifomula ukuze ihlale isikhathi eside. (Okuhlobene: Izithako Ezi-5 Zokunakekelwa Kwesikhumba Ezisusa Isikhumba Esifiphele Futhi Zikusize Ukhanye Ngaphakathi) Isizathu sesibili ukuthi ukusebenzisa ama-acid amaningi ekugxilweni okuphansi (esikhundleni seyodwa ekugxilweni okuphezulu) kungenza ifomula ingacasuli. "Kunokuba ngengeze i-asidi eyodwa ngamaphesenti angu-20, ngikhetha ukwengeza ama-asidi amane ngamaphesenti angu-5 ukuze ngithole imiphumela efanayo namathuba amancane okubangela ububomvu," kusho uDkt. Gross. (I-FYI, i-combo ye-acid imilingo ngemuva kwe-Baby Foot.)

Ngakho-ke yiziphi izinzuzo ezithile ezinikezwa yilaba abafika phezulu? Siyihlukanisa:

I-Mandelic Acid

Lena i-molecule enkulu ikakhulukazi, ngakho ayingeni esikhumbeni ijule. "Lokho kwenza kube ngcono ngezinhlobo ezibucayi ngoba ukungena okuncane kusho ubungozi obuncane bokucasuka," kusho uDkt Gross. URenée Rouleau, ongusaziwayo wase-esthetician e-Austin, uthi le-AHA ingasiza futhi "ekunqandeni ukukhiqizwa kwe-pigment eyeqile." Nge-caveat eyodwa. "I-Mandelic acid isiza ukuthuthukisa ukukhishwa kwamafutha ngokweqile futhi yehlise nengozi yokucasuka uma ihlanganiswa ne-glycolic, i-lactic, noma i-salicylic, kepha mhlawumbe akwanele ukuthi isidlali samandla sibe khona kumkhiqizo wodwa."

I-Lactic Acid

Sekunesikhathi eside-uCleopatra wasebenzisa ubisi olonakele ezindaweni zakhe zokugeza cishe ngonyaka wama-40 BCE ngoba ubisi lwe-lactic yemvelo lobisi lusize ekunciphiseni isikhumba esinolaka-kepha alukaze luzuze udumo lweleveli ye-glycolic ngoba alunamandla kangako, okungaba into enhle. I-Lactic iyi-molecule enkulu, ngakho ingenye esebenzayo yezinhlobo ezizwelayo, futhi ngokungafani ne-mandelic, inamandla ngokwanele ukuba umdlali oholayo emkhiqizweni. UDkt. Gross uchaza ukuthi i-lactic acid nayo ibophezela engxenyeni ephezulu yesikhumba futhi iyasigqugquzela ukuthi yenze ama-ceramide, asiza ukugcina umswakama ungangeni futhi ungacasuli ngaphandle. (Cishe uke wezwa nange-lactic acid mayelana nokukhathala kwemisipha nokubuyiselwa.)

I-Malic Acid

Ixhaswe ikakhulukazi ngama-apula, le AHA inikeza ezinye zezinzuzo ezifanayo zokuguga njenge-lactic acid, kodwa "imnene kakhulu," kusho uDebra Jaliman, M.D., udokotela wesikhumba waseNew York City. Uma ingezwa njengesithako esisekelayo kwifomula equkethe i-acid enamandla njenge-lactic, glycolic, ne-salicylic, isiza ukukhishwa ngobumnene nokukhuthaza i-ceramide.

I-Azelaic Acid

Ayikho i-AHA noma i-BHA, i-azelaic acid, etholakala kukolweni, i-rye, noma ibhali, "enezinto ezimbili zokulwa namagciwane nezokulwa nokuvuvukala, okwenza kube ukwelashwa okusebenzayo kwezinduna noma i-rosacea," kusho uJeremy Brauer, MD, udokotela wesikhumba waseNew York . Iphatha kokubili ngokwehlela ku-follicles, ibulale noma yimaphi amagciwane angaphakathi kuwo futhi iqede ukuvuvukala okubangelwa ukutheleleka. I-Azelaic acid futhi "ingamisa ukwakhiwa kwe-melanin eyeqile ebhekele izindawo ezimnyama, amabala, nezimagqabhagqabha ezingalingani esikhunjeni," kusho uDkt Jaliman. Ifanele isikhumba esimnyama (ngokungafani ne-hydroquinone namanye amalaser) ngoba abukho ubungozi be-hypo- noma i-hyperpigmentation, futhi igunyazwe kwabesifazane abakhulelwe nabancelisayo. Lokho kuhle kakhulu ngoba "abesifazane abaningi banenkinga nge-melasma kanye ne-breakout ezungeze ukukhulelwa," kusho uDkt Jaliman. (Nansi indlela yokukhipha ithoni yesikhumba sakho ngokwelashwa kwama-laser nama-peels.)

I-Phytic Acid

Enye i-asidi engeyona i-AHA noma i-BHA, le mpahla engaphandle iyi-antioxidant, ngakho-ke isiza ukuvikela ama-radicals aguga isikhumba. Kungavimbela futhi ama-blackheads futhi kunciphise ama-pores. "I-Phytic acid isebenza ngokubamba i-calcium, eyaziwa kabi ngesikhumba," kusho uDkt Gross. "I-calcium iguqula amafutha esikhumba sakho asuke oketshezini abe yingcina, futhi iwugqinsi olwakha ngaphakathi kwezimbotshana, okuholela ekubeni namakhanda amnyama futhi lwelule izimbotshana ukuze zibonakale zizikhudlwana." (Lokhu yikho konke odinga ukukwazi ngokususa ama-blackheads.)

I-Tartaric Acid

Le AHA ivela kumagilebhisi avutshiwe futhi yengezwa kumafomula e-glycolic noma e-lactic acid ukuqinisa ukuhlehla kwawo. Kepha inzuzo yayo eyinhloko ikhono layo lokulawula izinga le-pH lefomula. "Ama-acid adume kabi ngokushintsha ama-pH, futhi uma ejikela phezulu kakhulu noma ephansi kakhulu emkhiqizweni, umphumela uba ukucasuka kwesikhumba," kusho u-Rouleau. "I-tartaric acid ingasiza ekugcineni izinto zizinzile." (Okuhlobene: 4 Izinto Ezinobuqili Zokuphonsa Isikhumba Sakho Kubhalansi)

I-Citric Acid

Ngokufana ne-tartaric, i-citric acid, i-AHA etholakala ngokuyinhloko kulamula nama-lime, ibuye igcine amanye ama-asidi ebangeni le-pH ephephile. Ukwengeza, isebenza njengesilondolozi, esivumela amafomula okunakekelwa kwesikhumba ukuthi ahlale emusha isikhathi eside. Ekugcineni, i-citric acid iyi-chelator, okusho ukuthi isusa ukungcola okucasulayo (kusuka emoyeni, emanzini, nakwinsimbi esindayo) esikhumbeni. "U-Citric acid ubamba lokhu kungcola ukuze kungangeni esikhunjeni sakho," kusho uDkt Gross. "Ngithanda ukuyicabanga njengePac-Man yesikhumba." (PS kufanele futhi ufunde ku-microbiome yesikhumba sakho.)

Ama-Blends amahle kakhulu

Zama le mikhiqizo equkethe i-asidi ukuze ukhulise ukukhanya.

• UDkt Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Exfoliating Moisturizer ($ 68; sephora.com) inama-acid ayisikhombisa.
• Indlovu Edakiwe T.L.C. I-Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90; sephora.com) ivela kabusha ngenkathi ulele.
• Ukumiswa Okujwayelekile Kwe-Acid Azelaic 10% ($8; theordinary.com) ithoni elinganayo.
• I-BeautyRx kaDkt. Schultz Amaphedi Okukhiphayo Athuthukile angu-10%. ($ 70; amazon.com) bushelelezi, bukhanye, kanye namafemu.
• UDkt. Brandt Radiance Resurfacing Foam ($72; sephora.com) inikeza isikhumba umthamo wamasonto onke wama-asidi amahlanu.

Buyekeza kwe-