Ngeke Ubone U-Sasha DiGiulian Ekhuphuka Kuma-Olimpiki Ka-2020-Kodwa Yinto Enhle Leyo

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Lapho iKomidi lama-Olimpiki Lamazwe Omhlaba ekugcineni limemezela ukuthi ukukhuphuka kuzokwenza umdlalo wayo wokuqala we-Olimpiki kuma-2020 Summer Games eTokyo, kubukeke kufana nokuthi kunikezwe ukuthi uSasha DiGiulian-omunye wabagibeli abancane kunabo bonke, ohlobise kakhulu laphaya-uzobe ehlasela igolide. (Lena yonke imidlalo emisha ozoyibona kuma-Olympic Games ka-2020.)

Phela, lo mfana oneminyaka engu-25 ubudala akakaze ahlangabezane nerekhodi ayengakwazi ukulephula: Ubengowesifazane wokuqala waseNyakatho Melika ukukhuphuka u-grade 9a, 5.14d, othathwa njengongomunye wemidlalo enzima kakhulu etholwa owesifazane. ; ungene ezindaweni eziphakeme ezingaphezu kuka-30 zowesifazane wokuqala emhlabeni jikelele, okuhlanganisa nobuso obusenyakatho ye-Eiger Mountain (eyaziwa nje ngokuthi "Udonga Lokubulala"); futhi wayengowesifazane wokuqala ukukhululeka ukukhuphuka iMora Mora engamamitha angu-2 300. Ukube ubengancintisana kuma-Olimpiki, bekungaba njalo kube umncintiswano?

Kodwa uDiGiulian, owake wabhala ngokuyeka iphupho lakhe lama-Olympics lapho eyeka ukushibilika ukuze aqwale, akahlelile ukubuyela kulelo phupho ngoba nje ukuqwala sekusemidlalweni manje-futhi uthi into enhle leyo. Ngemuva komsebenzi wakhe wokuwina (uDiGiulian wayengu-World Champion wesifazane, i-Pan-American Champion engakaze ihlulwe iminyaka eyishumi, kanye ne-United States National Champion yezikhathi ezintathu), ukukhuphuka kokuncintisana sekuguquke kwaba uhlobo oluhlukile lomdlalo ngezinkanyezi ezintsha, futhi uyajabula ukubavumela bakhanye.

Siyabonga ngokwengeziwe kubagibeli abanjengoDiGiulian, ukukhuphuka sekutholakala kalula kunanini ngaphambili. Amajimu amasha angamashumi amane nantathu avulwa e-United States ngo-2017, ukwanda ngamaphesenti angu-10 sekukonke futhi cishe kabili inani lamajimu amasha avulwe ngonyaka odlule. Futhi abesifazane manje sebamele amaphesenti angama-38 abo bonke abancintisanayo abagibelayo, ngokusho kwe-International Federation of Sport Climbing. UDiGiulian ufuna ukubona lezo zinombolo zikhuphuka; yingakho, eqhubekela phambili, ufuna ukunikela ngemizamo yakhe yokuletha ukukhuphukela kubantu abaningi ngangokunokwenzeka.

Ngenkathi ababekade bencintisana naye bebanga i-International Federation of Sport Climbing World Cup kumaGoPro Games, axhaswe yiGMC, eVail, CO, uDiGiulian uvule isifuba ngokwanda kokukhuphuka kwezintaba, kungani abesifazane beheheka kangaka kulo mdlalo, nezinhloso zakhe ngaphezu kwegolide le-Olympic.

Umumo: Ukunyuka kukhuphuke kakhulu ekuthandweni kule minyaka embalwa edlule. Ingabe lokho kungenxa yokuqashelwa kwayo ngama-Olimpiki, noma ngabe kukhona okunye okudlalayo?

U-Sasha DiGiulian (SD): Kube khona lokhu kudlondlobala okukhulu kwezentengiso ezindaweni zokukhuphuka obekuvulwa kuwo wonke umhlaba. Kutolikwe njengale ndlela ehlukile yokuqina: Kulula ukuzibandakanya, kuyasebenzisana futhi kuyenhlalo, kwamukela zonke izinhlobo zomzimba nosayizi, futhi kuwukuzivocavoca umzimba okuphelele. (Lezi zivivinyo zizosiza ukulungiselela umzimba wakho ukukhuphuka.)

Futhi ukukhuphuka ngokwesiko bekuwumdlalo obuswa kakhulu ngabesilisa, kepha kunabesifazane abaningi kunakuqala abakhwela manje. Ngicabanga ukuthi abesifazane babonile ukuthi ungaba ngowesifazane futhi ube ngcono kakhulu kunabafana ejimini. Ngisho, ngingu-5'2 '' futhi kusobala ukuthi angisiyo indoda enkulu, enemisipha, kepha ngenza kahle kakhulu ngenqubo yami. Konke kumayelana nesilinganiso samandla kuya emzimbeni, okwenza kube ngumdlalo owemukelayo ngempela, ohlukahlukene.

Umumo: Njengoba abesifazane abaningi bekhuphuka ngokomsebenzi, ingabe izinto ziye zaba nokuncintisana kakhulu?

I-SD: Umphakathi okhuphukayo usondelene kakhulu. Lokho kungenye yezinto engizithandayo ngokukhuphuka. Sonke sibhekana nezenzakalo ezifanayo futhi sichitha isikhathi esiningi ndawonye, ​​ngakho nakanjani siba abangane abakhulu. Lapho uxhunywe ngothando olukhulu kangaka, ngicabanga ukuthi kukudonsela ekufaneni okuningi lapho ungaxhuma khona kahle.

Ngicabanga ukuthi into ebuyisa abesifazane emidlalweni kwesinye isikhathi ukungazi nokuzama. Ngingowesifazane wokuqala waseNyakatho Melika ukukhuphuka ibanga 9a, 5.14d, okwathi ngaleso sikhathi, kwaba ukukhuphuka okunzima ukwedlula konke okwasungulwa ngowesifazane emhlabeni. Manje, eminyakeni eyisikhombisa edlule, bebebaningi kakhulu abanye besifazane abangazange bakwenze lokho kuphela, kepha bakuthatha baqhubeka njengoMargo Hayes, owenza u-5.15a wokuqala, no-Angela Eiter, owenza i-5.15b yokuqala . Ngicabanga ukuthi isizukulwane ngasinye sizophusha imingcele yalokho osekufeziwe. Lapho abesifazane bebaningi, amazinga athe xaxa sizobona egayiwe.(Naba abanye abagibeli bamadwala besifazane be-badass abazokukhuthaza ukuthi uzame lo mdlalo.)

Umumo: Uzizwa kanjani ngokukhuphuka ekugcineni ukufakwa kuma-Olympics?

I-SD: Ngijabule kakhulu ukubona ukugibela kuma-Olympics! Umdlalo wethu ukhula kakhulu, futhi angisakwazi ukulinda ukubona ukukhuphuka kuleso siteji. Lapho ngisesikoleni samabanga aphakeme, ngangingomunye wezingane ezimbalwa ezazikwazi ngisho nokuqwala izintaba esikoleni sami. Ngabe sengibuyela emuva futhi ngakhuluma esikoleni sami ngonyaka odlule futhi kwakukhona izingane ezingaba ngu-220 eklabhu yokukhuphuka. Nganginjengokuthi, "Ima, nina madoda beningazi nokuthi ngenzani emuva ngaleso sikhathi!"

Ukukhuphuka kukhule futhi kwavela kakhulu kusukela lapho nginqoba i-World Championship ngo-2011-ifomethi nesitayela kushintshe ngokuphelele. Ngiyakuthanda ukubona ukuqhubekela phambili, kodwa angikaze ngenze ezinye zezinto ezizodingwa ama-Olympics, njengokuqwala isivinini [abaqwali kuzofanele baqhudelane ngokugwedla amatshe kanye nokuqwala phambili]. Ngakho-ke ngicabanga ukuthi iphupho lama-Olimpiki lingaphezulu kwesizukulwane esisha esikhula ngale ndlela entsha.

Umumo: Bekunzima yini kuwe ukunquma ukuthi uzoncintisana noma cha?

I-SD: Kwakuyisinqumo esinzima impela ukusithatha. Ngabe ngifuna ukubuyela emincintiswaneni futhi nginikele ngempela eminyakeni embalwa ezayo ekukhuphukeni kwepulasitiki ejimini? Noma ingabe ngifuna nje ukulandela lokho engizizwa ngobuqotho ngifuna ukukwenza? Engizizwa ngikuthanda kakhulu ukukhuphukela ngaphandle. Angifuni ukuyekethisa ngokuba ngaphandle, futhi ukwenza lokhu kukhuphuka okukhulu odongeni engikuhlelile, ukuba sejimini nokuziqeqesha. Ukuze ngiqhudelane kuma-Olympics, ngangizodinga lokho kugxilwa kweshubhu futhi ngihlele kabusha izinto eziza kuqala kimi. (Nazi izindawo eziyishumi nambili zama-rock ekukhuphukeni ngaphambi kokuba ufe.)

Kodwa yonke into emsebenzini wami, noma ngabe iyiphi impumelelo engibe nayo, bekungenxa yokuthi ngenza engifuna ukukwenza futhi ngilandela lokho engizizwa ngikuthanda ngakho. Angizizwa nginentshisekelo yokukhuphuka ejimini, futhi uma ngingenalo lolo thando, ngeke ngiphumelele. Angizizwa sengathi ngiyaphuthelwa, noma kunjalo, ngoba ngibonile leli phupho-lokunyuka ukuba semidlalweni yama-Olimpiki-lifezeka. Ngiyaziqhenya ngomdlalo wethu ngokwenza lokho kwenzeke.

Umumo: Njengoba ama-Olimpiki engekho etafuleni, yimiphi imigomo oyifinyelelayo manje?

I-SD: Umgomo wami omkhulu uwukwenza abantu abaningi ngangokunokwenzeka bazi ngokuqwala njengomdlalo. Imithombo yezokuxhumana ibiyimoto enhle yalokho. Ngaphambi kwalokho, kwakungumdlalo we-niche onjalo; vele uhambe uyokwenza into yakho. Manje, uhambo ngalunye esiluthathayo lusesandleni sabantu.

Nginamaphrojekthi amakhulu okukhuphuka avamile phakathi kwemiqansa ethile engifuna ukuyifinyelela-ngingathanda ukwenza izintaba zokuqala kuwo wonke amazwekazi. Kepha futhi ngifuna ukudala okuqukethwe kwamavidiyo okuvame kakhulu ekukhuphukeni njengale ndlela eya kwezinye izinto empilweni, njengezipiliyoni zokucwiliswa ngokwesiko enginakho lapho ngihamba. Ngifuna abantu baqonde ukuthi ukukhuphuka kungaba yilo mkhumbi ukubona umhlaba. Imvamisa, konke esikubonayo yilawa mavidiyo womkhiqizo wokugcina, lapho umuntu okhuphuka esikalini iwa elithile elimangalisayo endaweni ephawulekayo. Umuntu obukayo usala ezibuza, "Ufika kanjani lapho?" Ngifuna ukukhombisa abantu ukuthi ngingumuntu wakho nje ojwayelekile. Ngiyakwenza, ngakho-ke nawe ungakwenza. (Qala lapha ngamathiphu wokuqwala kwamadwala wabaqalayo kanye ne-Essential Rock Clinging Gear Okudingayo Ukungena Odongeni.)

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