I-Skinny Kangakanani I-Store Mannequins?

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Ubudlelwano bukaFashion nomzimba wakhe budume kabi. Izingxoxo ezizungezile le nkinga ngokuvamile zibhekisela ezinkingeni ezifana nokusabalala kwamamodeli azacile kakhulu emigwaqweni yezindiza nasemikhankasweni yezikhangiso. Kepha lezi zithombe eziyingozi kwesinye isikhathi zibhekana nathi ezimweni zomhlaba wangempela, futhi kube nengxoxo ngama-mannequins wesitolo, okuvame ukuba mncane kakhulu kunosayizi 2 osezingeni elijwayelekile phakathi kwamamodeli. AmaBrands afana neTopshop ne-Oasis ahlaselwe kulo nyaka ngokusebenzisa kwawo ama-mannequins amancane kakhulu; laba bathengisi baseBrithani selokhu baziphendula izikhalazo, kepha izindawo zokugcina ezitolo emhlabeni wonke zisebenzisa izibonisi zamawindi ezinokulinganiswa komzimba okungenangqondo ngokuphelele.

Ngokuvumelana ne Unogada, i-mannequin "ejwayelekile" ingamamitha azungeze amamitha ayisithupha ubude, ine-busty engama-intshi angu-34, okhalweni olungamayintshi angama-24, kanye nezinqe ezingama-34-intshi, namathole amancane, amaqakala nezihlakala. Akudingeki ukusho, kukude kakhulu nokwakhiwa kwesayizi lowesifazane waseMelika eyi-14 (okuthi, ngokusho kwabathengisi abaningi abanjengoJ. Crew, okulingana nokubhampa okungu-40.5-intshi, okhalweni olungamasentimitha angama-33, kanye nezinqulu ezingama-intshi angama-43).

Manje kungani umehluko omkhulu phakathi kwamawindi wesitolo neqiniso? Ngokusho kochwepheshe, lokhu kungafani kubilisa ekumaketheni okuqondile. Njengamamodeli amancanyana anciphisa umgwaqo, inhloso yama-mannequins ukuthengisa iphupho. UKathleen Hammond, oyi-VP yama-akhawunti amasu kumthengisi we-mannequin waseNew York uGoldsmith, uchaze ukuthi izitolo zithenga uhlobo lwama-mannequins abakholelwa nje ukuthi azothengisa izingubo eziningi. "Amamodeli ahamba emigwaqweni yezindiza anosayizi 2 noma u-0," kusho yena."Lawa ma-mannequins alingisa lelo nani, ngoba abathengisi bakholelwa ukuthi kwenza umkhiqizo wabo ubukeke ungcono kakhulu." Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi lokhu kucabanga kuyiqiniso yini, kunesixwayiso esibalulekile: Ngamalungu azo azacile ngothi, imizimba eshelelayo, kanye nemilenze emide eyimayela, lezi zithombe ezingenabuso azibukeki njengabantu bangempela nhlobo. Umkhulumeli we-Oasis usebenzise wona kanye lowo mbono njengendlela yokuthethelela izidumi zawo eziyimpikiswano ku-Refinery29 ngasekuqaleni kwale nyanga. "Ama-mannequins ethu ezitolo abhalwe kahle ukumela uhlelo lwezobuciko futhi ayikho neze imizamo yokuveza ngokunembile ubukhulu beqiniso," esho.

Nakuba ama-mannequins engasoze adidaniswa nabantu bangempela, aseyizethulo zezingubo, umthengisi, kanye nekhasimende elifanelekile. Njengoba uLisa Mauer wenkampani yezimenenja iSiegal & Stockman ekubeka, "Ufuna i-mannequin yakho ikhombise isimo sengqondo sokuthi ubani ofuna umthengi wakho abe yilo."

UMauer uphinde acaphune abaculi abanjengo-Alberto Giacometti nezithombe zakhe ezibunjiwe ezidumile njengogqozi ngemuva kwama-silhouette ka-mannequins. Futhi uma ucabanga ukuthi ama-mannequins adinga ukucwila ukuze abasebenzi bezitolo bakwazi ukuwagqokisa, akunjalo. Bobabili uHammond noMauer bawususile umqondo wokuthi ubukhulu be-mannequin bunomthelela ekusebenzeni okuyisisekelo. "Ama-mannequins aqhamuka ngendlela efanayo, ngakho-ke akunandaba ukuthi angakanani noma mancane kangakanani - imanaquin esayizi enkulu kakhulu yehlukana ngendlela efanayo neyokujwayelekile," kuchaza uHammond. Kodwa-ke, kunezinzuzo ezimbalwa ezisemqoka zezilinganiso zehaba zama-mannequins. Ukuma kwawo okujwayelekile okubanzi nemilenze emide (imvamisa egobile kancane) igcina ibhulukwe lingahlangani phansi. Ngaphezu kwalokho, le mizimba emide ivame ukubukeka ingcono ngokubuka kwamakhasimende, okuvame ukuthi kube ngaphezulu noma ngezansi.

Ngokusho kwendatshana ekhishwe yi I-Smithsonian Magazine ngo-1991, ama-mannequins aye aba mancane-afana nabantu eminyakeni edlule. Ngokushesha ngemuva kokwethulwa komuthi wokuqala ogcwele umzimba eFrance ngo-1870, nezinye izitolo zalandela okufanayo. Ngasekupheleni kwekhulu le-19 nasekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20, lezi zinhlobo zesitolo sangaphambili zakhiwa ngamakhanda we-wax abukeka enengqondo, futhi ziqukethe imininingwane eningiliziwe njengamehlo engilazi nama-wigi (futhi kwezinye izimo, ngisho namazinyo angamanga). Kuze kwaba ngawo-1920 lapho umenzi wemikhiqizo yasempumalanga uSiegel & Stockman eqala ukusebenzisa iphepha-mache (esikhundleni sezinto ezedlule ezifana nezinkuni ne-wax) lapho lezi zici zangabonakali. Kulezi zinsuku, ama-mannequins ngokuvamile enziwa ngezinto ezifana nepulasitiki ne-fiberglass, futhi ubuso babo bushelelezi bungekho izici ezihlukanisayo-uma benamakhanda nhlobo.

Kepha noma kunjalo, uma onobuhle abaphakathi ngokwesilinganiso bethengisa izingubo eziningi, futhi inhloso yama-mannequins ukuletha inzuzo, kungani-ke ungamukeli i-mannequin yowesifazane "ojwayelekile"? Kubukeka kuyisiphukuphuku ikakhulukazi, uma kubhekwa ukuthi abathengisi abaningi bandise iminikelo yabo kuze kube ngosayizi 4XL - kepha nokho benqabe ukwazisa leli khasimende kumawindi abo. Imifanekiso yasesitolo isetshenziswe ukwenza izitatimende mayelana nobulili besifazane, ubulili, nesithombe somzimba esikhathini esedlule, kodwa ngaphandle kweminye imikhankaso ebalulekile, ama-mannequins anosayizi omaphakathi ambalwa futhi aphakathi kakhulu.

UMauer ukufakazela ukuthi kunezinhlobo eziningi zomzimba ezahlukahlukene kakhulu ukumela. Nakuba yena (no-Hammond) bobabili beshesha ukuveza ukuthi amamodeli amancane nakasayizi owengeziwe athengiswa ngempela kubathengisi, ukuba neqembu lama-mannequins anosayizi ongashintshi kuyisu eliphumelela kakhulu lokuthengisa. "Njengomgwaqo wezindiza, udinga ukufana," kusho uMauer. "Kungakuhle ukuthi zonke izinhlobo zomzimba zimelwe, kepha uma unikezwa isikhala esilinganiselwe esitolo, ukufana kubalulekile emyalezweni ozovela." Kusazobonakala ukuthi ukwamukelwa kwakamuva kwabesifazane abagcwele umzimba emgwaqeni wezindiza nasemikhankasweni kuzohumusheka yini ezingeni lokuthengisa. Kepha ngabathengisi abasha, njengesitolo somnyango waseSweden i-Åhléns, bakhipha ngempumelelo ama-mannequins asezingeni eliphakeme, nakhu sethemba ukuthi eminye imikhiqizo iyaphuma esikhunjeni (ngokoqobo) bese ilandela.

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